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october-2024-2

Boomer Destinations: Exploring Alaska by air, sea and land

By Tim Trudell

Whether you’re a fan of nature, intrigued by glaciers or interested in Indigenous culture, Alaska offers all of this and more. Toss in a little kitsch and amazing food and you’ll have fun traversing the state from Ketchikan to Fairbanks.

Explore the 49th state via sea, air or rail for a special experience that you’ll relive for years.

Ketchikan 

The southeast Alaska community may be the rainiest in the United States with more than 200 inches of precipitation annually, but the city of 8,000 packs in a lot of fun attractions. A port city for both large and small boat cruises, check out activities ranging from kayaking Orca Cove to visiting an oyster and kelp farm. 

You don’t need to be a fan of the television series “Deadliest Catch” to enjoy a three-hour tour aboard the Aleutian Ballad. The former crab fishing boat may be best-known for a rogue wave that nearly capsized during an early season of the series.

Retrofitted as a tour boat, owner Steve Lethin leads a tour of the Inside Passage with an interactive experience involving marine life such as an octopus. Lethin relives life as a Being Sea captain while the Aleutian Ballad travels to a special fishing spot, where the team raises a crab pot, just like on “Deadliest Catch.” Instead of giant King crab, this haul nets a cage of Dungeness crabs. 

The pinnacle of the tour, though, is the feeding of eagles. Stopping off an island, the team tosses frozen fish into the water (with approval from a local Alaska Native tribe), sending dozens of eagles into a feeding frenzy. Swooping down from their perches high above the water, eagles grab the fish and head back to a safe spot to enjoy their haul.

On land, Alaska Native culture and history are featured at the Totem Heritage Center and Saxman Village. The heritage center offers a historical look at northwest tribal cultures. Often misunderstood by non-Natives, “low man on the totem” is actually an honor, as the pole’s story is told from bottom to top. There are also a variety of totems, and you definitely don’t want to be the subject of a shame totem, which mocks a person.

Saxman Village includes a totem park with more than a dozen historical pieces created by Tlingit (Klink it) master carvers. 

Kitschy Ketchikan is highlighted by the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. Four professional lumberjacks compete in a series of events from sawing tree trunks and climbing poles to balancing on a log in the water while another person tries to knock him off of it. 

Alaskan Dream Cruises 

While Alaskan Dream Cruises offers a variety of tours, the Inside Passage Sojourn covers everything you may want on a small-boat cruise. Glaciers, wildlife, nature and Alaska Native history are highlighted over eight nights and nine days. 

Departing from either Ketchikan or Sitka, the only Indigenous-owned cruise company in the United States visits the Alaska Native communities of Metlakatla, Kasaan and Wrangell, where you’ll learn about tribal history and culture. 

Metlakatla is the home of the Tsimshian (Seem she in) tribe. Visiting a clan house (raven, eagle, wolf and killer whale), you’ll learn its importance socially, including as a home and gathering place. Community members perform songs and dances, explaining each clan’s role and sharing the design of their regalia (clothing). 

A visit to the Haida (Hi Da) village of Kasaan features a look at the history of totems, since the tribe is believed to be among the first to create them. A guided walk through the woods leads to several totems. Totems’ stories can only be shared by the carver. In their absence, the family can approve it.

Wrangell begins the foothold of the Tlingit (Klink it) tribe in Southeast Alaska. While the town is home to several totems, Petroglyph Beach gives a unique view of historical drawings on rocks hugging the shoreline. The drawings – having faded over the centuries because of weather – remain an important part of the Tlingit’s story. 

Juneau may be the state’s capital, but the city of 32,000 is also a Tlingit stronghold. Artwork and totems can be seen celebrating the culture. The state museum features an in-depth look at Native culture as well as Russian influence and the gold rush. 

Cruising through Tracy and Endicott Arms, passengers soak in the beauty of Southeast Alaska’s rain forests. With cliffs stretching 3,000 feet tall, forests seemingly cover the mountains like a quilt. The breathtaking beauty is highlighted as the 49-passenger boat passes majestic New Eddystone Rock, jutting more than 150 feet above the water. 

Glacier enthusiasts will love the float through Glacier Bay National Park. Anchored by John Hopkins and Margerie glaciers, you’ll take in the views of several as the boat glides past. 

Once on land, explore the national park’s forested trails or enjoy a meal at the visitors center’s restaurant. 

During the cruise, Alaskan Dream hosts each meal aboard the boat. With salmon and steak offered daily, passengers also enjoy special entrees such as halibut, bison and wild boar. 

Sitka 

Located on the outer coast of the Inside Passage, Sitka’s Castle Hill was the site of Russia relinquishing control of Alaska to the United States. The spot offers a majestic view of the town and its harbors. 

While downtown is home to quaint shops and boutiques, the waterfront trail takes you past marinas to Sitka National Historical Park. During your walk along well-groomed trails, you’ll find replica totems constructed as a public works project during the Great Depression, as well as trees seemingly stretching forever skyward.

Wildlife enthusiasts enjoy visiting Fortress of the Bears, a sanctuary for bears unable to survive in the wild. Each of the eight black and grizzly bears arrived at the fortress as cubs after their mothers were killed for a variety of reasons. 

Grizzly males frolic in a spacious area anchored by a large water hole. Female grizzlies have a similar set-up, with the group separated by a wall. Three black bears roam a tree-covered section. 

The Alaska Raptor Center offers a home for birds – eagles, hawks and owls among them – with injuries preventing them from surviving in the wild. Animal specialists also work with injured raptors that can return to the wild, providing wound treatment and rehabilitation.

Anchorage 

Located in south central Alaska along Cook Outlet, Anchorage is the state’s largest city. Art, history, Native culture and food highlight a visit. 

The Alaska Native Heritage Center provides an in-depth look into the state’s Indigenous Peoples. With more than 250 tribes living in Alaska, the heritage center’s exhibits cover the state’s five regions. Displays include historical and cultural artifacts showcasing tribes’ differences, as well as what connects them.

A visit to the center includes songs and dances, along with handheld drums. Each dance’s story is described.

Alaska Native youth share some of the athletic games they play to stay in shape for fishing and hunting seasons. 

Tour the living history at its outdoor campus, from earth lodges to western-influenced cabins. Along the way, you’ll learn about hunting and fishing tips, as well as how to smoke salmon and prepare hides.

While the Alaska Native Heritage Center provides an excellent look into the lives of Indigenous Peoples, the Anchorage Museum adds to it with a Smithsonian-style exhibit. Working with tribal elders, the museum created an interactive display of artifacts that may be one of the best in the country in sharing Alaska Native stories. Highlighting major tribes, the exhibit features clothing, tools, hats, masks and toys that differentiate the five regions.

While at the Anchorage Museum, explore the Alaska story, taking you from the state’s original citizens to European influence and the gold rush. From wildlife to the Alaska oil pipeline of the 1970s, the museum includes interactive exhibits. 

Growing up in small-town Nebraska, never did I think I’d ever walk on a glacier. Managing to walk a few feet on a snowdrift before it collapsed under your bodyweight was considered a victory. But, climbing over chunks of ice and traversing Matanuska Glacier is definitely a bucket list item.

Located about two hours from Anchorage on the Glenn Highway, Matanuska Glacier is only manageable by guided tours. Salmonberry Tours, one of several offering trips to Matanuska, will pick up and drop off at hikers’ hotels. 

Once there, hikers spend about 90 minutes exploring the glacier. Learn how fissures – calving – happens, as well as see water tunnels form. More than 20 miles long, people also climb Matanuska’s ice walls. 

Anchorage’s public art scene shares the city’s story through sculptures and murals. From its Indigenous community to marine life, art also celebrates the story of the Iditarod, with a dog sculpture in the Mushing District, site of the ceremonial start to the annual race. 

Anchorage’s culinary scene is ripe with fresh fish and crab legs, but for a unique experience, consider the yak burger at 49th State Brewery, along the Tony Knowles trail. Enjoy a walk or bicycle ride on the trail before dinner.

Talkeetna 

The inspiration for the fictional town of Cicely, Alaska, in the television series “Northern Exposure,” Talkeetna is small but packed with lots to do during a day trip or an overnight visit.

From shopping to dining, Talkeetna offers an eclectic experience. Visitors have plenty of chances to buy Alaska-themed clothing, candy, food, magnets. Almost anything you can imagine. 

Nature enthusiasts love the area. Fishing and kayaking are popular activities. Explore the Mat-Su Comsat outside town by trekking any of its trails. For a special experience, consider a guided tour with Alaska Nature Guides. Guides often share information about vegetation and its uses, including some that are edible. They can also find signs of wildlife unrecognized by amateur hikers. 

Mt. Denali may be located hours away at the national park, but hop aboard a flightseeing tour and within an hour you’ll be standing on a glacier not far from the mountain. Both Talkeetna Air Taxi and K-2 offer similar experiences, taking people near three of the tallest mountain peaks in North America. The view seems surreal as planes fly up-close to the mountains. 

Landing on a glacier used as base camp for hikers attempting to reach the peak of Denali, passengers can walk short distances, with some even making snowmen. What a memory! 

While you can reach Talkeetna by car – two hours north of Anchorage – consider hopping aboard the Alaska Railroad. 

Fairbanks 

About a six-hour drive from Anchorage, the most fun way to visit Fairbanks is by enjoying a daylong ride on the Alaska Railroad. If you’re coming from the south (Seward and Anchorage), sit back and soak in the spectacular views of forests, mountains, rivers and wildlife. 

Once in Fairbanks, there is plenty to keep you busy over a few days. From unique food to panning for gold, Fairbanks offers an entertaining time in the Interior of Alaska. 

Step aside Gilligan, Riverboat Discovery’s three-hour tour on the Chena River takes you to impressive attractions without the fear of being stranded on a deserted island. 

This isn’t your typical riverboat cruise. Riverboat Discovery stops mid-trip so passengers can watch a float plane take off just a few feet from the boat. Follow that with a visit to Susan Butcher’s Iditarod dog training facility. The four-time race champion, who died in 2006, trained her canines at the Trail Breaker Kennel. 

Enjoy a history lesson in Alaska Native fishing and more at the Chena Village Living History Village during a shoreline tour. Athabascan (western name for a variety of tribes) citizens share stories of early living structures and how they were later influenced by European contact, as well as clothing and tools. Watch as salmon is prepared to be smoked for the season. 

Enjoy a salmon dinner or prime rib the size of Alaska (26-28 ounces) at Pioneer Park’s Salmon Bake. The outdoor restaurant offers a unique dining experience. Following dinner, enjoy a walk through the historical village featuring buildings relocated from other areas of the city. Catch a musical performance at the park’s theater. 

Fairbanks made a name for itself during the gold rush of the late 1800s. How about panning for some gold yourself? Hop aboard the train at Gold Dredge 8, a few miles outside the city and learn about the state’s infatuation with gold panning as you head to a mining museum for a little gold panning.

No visit to Fairbanks is complete without a visit with Santa Claus at his house in North Pole. Located about 20 minutes south of Fairbanks, it’s Christmas every day at Santa’s House, with ornaments, nutcrackers and more at the store. Visit with the Jolly Old Elf himself. You can even have the North Pole send a letter to family or friends that will arrive during the holiday season. 

Speaking of Santa, his reindeer need something to do during the offseason, and Running with Reindeer Ranch helps with that mission. The ranch, which has been open for about 20 years, allows visitors to take a walk through the woods with its 14 domesticated reindeer. Pet one as the reindeer pass by you or pose for a photo with them. It’s an experience to be treasured.

Alaska has so much to offer visitors – Aurora Borealis, marine life tours, glacier tours, hiking, fishing, museums, snowmachining, to name a few – but if you focus on your interests or seek a new opportunity, the Last Frontier State is the perfect place for a life-enhancing vacation. 

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